{"id":897,"date":"2024-10-26T10:40:52","date_gmt":"2024-10-26T08:40:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/?p=897"},"modified":"2024-10-26T10:44:08","modified_gmt":"2024-10-26T08:44:08","slug":"another-exercise-evaluation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/?p=897","title":{"rendered":"Another exercise evaluation"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Bouldering is going great. I&#8217;ve been steadily progressing and I&#8217;m now projecting 6Bs and 6B+s &#8211; flashing most 6As and even flashing some 6Bs. This is a big jump from my evaluation in April and I didn&#8217;t think I&#8217;d ever get this far.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>My planned exercises aren&#8217;t going too well, but that&#8217;s ok. I do still occasionally do stair climbing cardio, but it&#8217;s mostly the 30 minute bike rides (and back) that have been improving my stamina. Besides that I haven&#8217;t done much exercising lately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Points of attention:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Elbow: I&#8217;m starting to feel my elbow again, if I don&#8217;t work on my antagonist forearm muscles I feel like I will get tendonitis from the muscle imbalance. Or maybe since it&#8217;s mostly my right elbow, it might also be mouse RSI worsened by climbing. Anyway, wrist roller seems to immediately make it better, so I should do that.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Clavicle: I have some mild pain in my right acromioclavicular (AC) joint, but not from bouldering; I always get this when I do pushups. Again it might be mouse arm RSI, worsened by exercise. I think I should strengthen my rotator cuff and work on scapular control. Probably my shoulder stability is my most limiting factor in bouldering at the moment. Instead of pushups I could do band chest press, which is a bit more controlled. <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Core: has been getting stronger from just climbing lately. Could use some extra exercises, but no longer as big an issue as it was in April.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Finger tendons: my finger strength has been steadily increasing without issue despite not doing any specific exercises. I&#8217;m a little worried that extra finger strengthening would be too much because I already boulder 2-3 times per week, so I&#8217;m no longer doing hangboarding.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>I&#8217;m thinking about doing an antagonist muscles &amp; shoulder health exercise routine after every bouldering session, because then I&#8217;m already &#8220;in the flow&#8221;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Warm-up\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Broomstick dislocates<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Wrist roller<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Main circuit (repeat 1-3 times)\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Band face pulls with Y-raise<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Band chest press<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Band external rotations left\/right<em> (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Band Paloff press left\/right<em> (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cool-down\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Wrist roller <em>(optional)<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Broomstick dislocates<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Bouldering is going great. I&#8217;ve been steadily progressing and I&#8217;m now projecting 6Bs and 6B+s &#8211; flashing most 6As and even flashing some 6Bs. This is a big jump from my evaluation in April and I didn&#8217;t think I&#8217;d ever get this far. My planned exercises aren&#8217;t going too well, but that&#8217;s ok. I do [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-897","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-exercise"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/897","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=897"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/897\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":902,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/897\/revisions\/902"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=897"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=897"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/invar.nl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=897"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}